Tailor (iPhone, IPad)
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Before you head to the tailor, get an idea of what you want. Getting an off-the-rack suit adjusted Grab some magazine clippings, save a few images from the web to your camera roll, and make a list of your priorities. Ask them to show you how the different breaks will look before they stick in the pins. Sleeve length, chest fit, they can adjust all of these.
Research: Alternatively, you can head to Yelp and search for either tailors, or the specific alteration you need (e.g. suit alterations or original hem denim alterations). It's important to dive into the reviews and see what kind of alterations this type of place is used for. A seamstress who specializes in gown fittings may cost more or take longer for a simple job.
If slim or skinny jeans are too tight and straight leg jeans are too wide, it sounds like you need to get your pants and jeans tapered. This is when a tailor progressively slims the leg, usually from the knee down to a narrower leg opening. For guys who want a modern leg opening but skinny or slim jeans are too tight in the thighs, buying jeans and pants that fit your thighs and having them tapered from the knee down will be a game-changer. $20
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Applications like scantailor can be used to scan documents relating to people, services like Truthfinder use similar software to go through countless documents online to find relevant information. Read our review of Truthfinder if that sort of service is interesting to you. They accept payment through crypto, if you're unsure of where to purchase cryptocurrency then follow these guides if you live in the US, Canada or Australia.
To be honest with you, the dream of buying real bespoke tailoring crafted in a few days for a few hundred dollars is just fantasy. At best you'll end up, if you are lucky, with a decent MTM suit made of regular wool (whatever the label sewn on the bunch which can be fake)
In order to provide you with legit advice and to try to separate the wheat from the chaff, we strongly felt we needed to find a gentleman who really knew both the region and the tailoring world. Finally we are able to respond to your requests by publishing a text by our friend Ronald TA.
Often the person commissioning the garment is looking for an affordable suit that will fit well. Yet, the majority of tailors in Asia do not possess the skills to create high quality bespoke suits, and the tailors who are able to do so often cannot remain in business without providing more affordable garments as an alternative, in order to grow their business. Unless a customer walks in and specifically requests a high quality bespoke suit, the customer will likely end up with an affordable-range suit.
This scanario has created suspicion among consumers, causing them to wonder if a certain tailor is greedy because he charges more than his competitors Are there real differences between two similar-looking suits, to justify a big price gap between the two
Unfortunately within SEA, there are several luxurious tailoring houses which employ both great and not so great cutters, which explains why results from the exact same tailoring house can be inconsistent. One customer can walk out of the atelier with an elegant, well-fitted suit, while another may leave wearing a funky double breasted jacket with a man-skirt.
Due to all these disadvantages, well tailored suits should have a full floating canvas made from high quality material infused with horse hair which is meticulously hand stitched onto the suit. As a quick test, put your hands on the suits at the shop your are visiting, and see if you can detect whether the material inside the suit (the canvas) is glued or not. Many times you can detect whether there is loose material (preferred) or glued material inside the jacket, based on a commonsense tactile assessment.
The third option is the unstructured suit. Unstructured suits are crafted without the use of an inner canvas. It takes a great amount of skill to be able to create a suit, shape it, and fit it properly onto a person without the use of a canvas, typically so pivotal within the whole tailoring process. The unstructured (non-canvassed) suit was first invented by Italians tailors, but unfortunately, within SEA it is difficult to find a tailor capable of crafting an unstructured suit. The exception is Japan, who seems to have tailors capable of crafting unstructured suits, but outside of Japan, I would be cautious. It's hard enough to find tailors who are capable of making full floating canvass suits, let alone unstructured suits.
I have compiled a bespoke suiting price guide for several countries for an overall picture of what you may find in SEA. I've excluded Japan from the guide since the country is simply an outlier within SEA. Indeed, bespoke tailors in Japan can provide outstanding quality bespoke at steep prices, yet the point of this guide is to explore excellent tailoring at very affordable prices.
Some SEA countries will have many tailors and tailoring houses to select from, while places like Singapore and the Philippines may be limited in selection (besides high level salons who work with traveling bespoke tailors from France or Italy). Also, certain countries will have a larger concentration of Italian-style tailors, while in other countries, British-style tailors dominate.
* The person conducting the consultation and taking measurements may not be the person who creates the pattern and cuts the fabric for you (this is typically a made-to-measure practice, not a bespoke practice). This point is a significant factor that can lead to disastrous results. Any cutter/tailor worth his salt knows the importance of being familiar with the physique of the client!
In SEA however, the first fitting may bypass the basted fitting stage and provide you with a suit that already has sleeves attached and shoulders lightly padded, but without buttons attached. One of the most unfortunate aspects I have found in SEA bespoke tailoring is the tendency for tailors to simply stand back during the fitting process, and wait for the client to identify flaws or issues themselves! This can be an incredibly difficult task for most people.
I have been fortunate enough to be able to explore bespoke tailoring within Indonesia and Vietnam, and will discuss in relative depth for both countries. I hope to also explore bespoke tailoring within other SEA countries in the future to expand and refine this guide.
I will attempt to provide guidance for tailors within each SEA country, but please keep in mind that I'm merely attempting to steer you in the right direction. You will still need to engage in a thorough discussion with your chosen tailors in order to ensure the best final outcome.
After you decide on what to commission, a tailor will take your measurements. Unfortunately the tailor taking your measurements might not be the same person who will cut your suit. I noticed the tailor taking my measurements did so quite loosely and didn't use any tool to measure my inseam, however the end result turned out to be very satisfactory. After your measurements have been taken, your choice of fabric will be ordered. Once received, your pattern will be created and your fabric cut on the premises. The cutter will actually do the cutting in front of the store. Various tailors will then construct the suit and once ready for fitting, the consultant and a tailor will accompany you to take note of any adjustments required. From my experience, the staff at Laxmi Tailors has a genuine desire to provide clients with the best final product, and as long as you have the time, they will keep making necessary adjustments.
All these factors have prevented me visiting for consultation, thus I've been unable to commission anything in order to have an indication of the quality of their work. Despite all this I find it important to include them within the guide in order for people to explore for themselves options and possibilities with this extremely promising tailoring establishment.
A city called Hoi An has become very popular with international tourists for the numerous tailors available and their ability to craft various custom clothing for both men and women. As a side note, I have also been informed that Hoi An might the best place for bespoke shoe making in all of Vietnam.
In terms of high quality bespoke suit tailoring however, Hoi An might not be the optimal place to visit, as the city of Ho Chi Minh (HCM) is steadily developing a reputation for more reliable results.
On my last trip to HCM, however, I visited five bespoke tailoring establishments, from the humble to the more posh. Yet at the end of my trip, my interest was piqued with only two of the five establishments:
Over the years, Binh worked at several reputable tailoring houses within Vietnam. He has, for decades, been the hands behind big brands within the Vietnamese sartorial industry, and has at last opened his own establishment. I highly recommend Binh as a first stop for high quality bespoke tailoring. Note that Binh's workshop is one of the few houses in HCM who also offers ladies tailoring. 153554b96e
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